Daniel Kiowski, head sommelier at Markus Molitor winery on the Mosel, discusses the best vintages of the past 15 years, global wine consumption trends, and how to visit the region with an open mind.©DROver the past 15 years, which were the best years for Mosel wines?
It is a complex question, because style matters first. Some people always prefer colder vintages, higher in acid, more lean and precise. The consumer side often prefers riper, warmer character wines with a certain creaminess and richness. Then imagine asking a producer who sells grapes: for them, a good vintage means high yields, like 2018, where we picked as much as in 1982. It was a massive vintage in terms of quantity, and in terms of volume and quality, 2018 remains an absolute exception. It is a little softer on the acid side, but it gains structure and will be much more exciting in the future. If I had to pick the most complete vintage of the past 15 years, from the top producer to the top terroir, it is 2023. Going back further, 2017 is quite low in yield and high in concentration. For Pinot Noir, though, my all-time favourite Mosel vintage is 2022: a concentration and natural richness we never had before. You also need to divide Riesling into dry and sweet categories, because some years produce grapes perfect for dry wine but with no Botrytis, so Beerenauslese is impossible. Overall, 2023 and 2020 rank most complete. For people who love electric, laser-sharp acidity, I would recommend 2021 or 2024. In 2024 we produced a dry Riesling at 9.3% alcohol, a style we had not seen since the 1990s. The hang time on the Mosel is the key: even picking at very low must weight, the wines deliver intensity. I have been telling people for 10 years about light but intense wines. Nobody was listening. But now, with sober October, Dry January and the new worldwide health conversation, for the first time people listen, and our low-alcohol style becomes an advantage."I have been telling people for 10 years about light but intense wines. Nobody was listening."Where do you see markets slowing down? Where do you see them growing?
A clear difference exists between markets where drinking wine forms part of the culture and newer wine destinations. Singapore and Japan are stable: people have been drinking wine for decades. In South Korea or China, wine remains a luxury, and when the economy struggles, luxury consumption falls first, like Cuban cigars. In terms of the broader market, the challenge today is that no bad wine exists anymore. I recently cooked at home and picked a €2.90 California Cabernet for the sauce as a test. I was shocked how good it was. That is not our clientele; our clientele want a reflection of terroir and origin, and that category will always remain the most exciting wine to drink. The difference between industrial wine and terroir wine is what we must keep communicating.When people from Luxembourg visit, what would you advise them to do?
The best tip I can give is to be open-minded and listen to the producer's story. When we receive visitors, we ask what they would like to try. Most say dry only. We pour a dry Riesling, then move to an off-dry style, and they start smiling. I avoid the words sugar or sweetness, because people link them with cheap or low quality. Yet many people love that style. Imagine not liking steak: you would never order it. But people order dry wine even when they prefer a touch of sweetness, simply because they fear looking unsophisticated. Mosel Riesling with residual sugar is not a dessert wine. We offer a unique balance of sweetness, acidity and fine minerality in a light body with very low alcohol, totally different from sticky, heavy, sweet wines. With great cuisine, many dishes pair far better with a touch of natural sweetness. Just come to the Mosel, drop the preconceptions, meet the producers, hear the story, and let yourself be surprised.© Duke26
